The opener problems we fix most
Honestly, most opener calls boil down to three things: a gear that's worn out, sensors that got knocked crooked, or a circuit board fried in a storm.
Motor humming but the door's not moving? Usually the plastic drive gear's stripped. Door heads back up right as it's about to touch down? Probably dirty or bumped sensors, or the low sun shining right in their eyes. And those big summer thunderstorms and power surges are rough on circuit boards. We replace a good number of them around the harbor every single year.
Loads of houses in Glen Cove have a bedroom or home office sitting right over an attached garage. For those, we'll nearly always point you to a belt drive, since you'll barely hear it. In the big estate garages with tall ceilings or storage racks overhead, a wall-mount opener sits off to the side of the door and keeps the ceiling wide open.
Why won't my door close all the way? It keeps going back up.
Nine out of ten times it's the sensors. Give the lenses a wipe and check that both little lights are glowing steady, not blinking. If they look okay, a worn roller might be dragging, and the opener thinks something's in the way. That's when you give us a call.
Belt drive or chain drive, which one should I get?
If somebody sleeps or works over the garage, go belt. It's about $100 more than chain and a whole lot quieter. For a detached garage out back, a solid chain drive does the job just fine.